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Sewing To Distraction Everybody Loves Cartridge Pleats!

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Fashion School Pleats please! Sewing techniques, Sewing basics jpg (650x1200)

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Table of Contents

What are Cartridge Pleats?

Cartridge pleats are a type of pleat that are often used in historical garments such as Renaissance dresses, Elizabethan gowns, and Victorian skirts. They are created by folding the fabric in a specific way to create a series of small pleats that are tightly packed together. The pleats are then attached to the bodice or waistband of the garment, creating a full and voluminous effect.

Cartridge pleats were historically used to allow for greater movement and flexibility in the garment while still maintaining a full and voluminous shape. They can be used on a variety of different types of garments, including skirts, dresses, and even jackets.

What Materials Do You Need?

To create cartridge pleats, you will need:

  • Fabric
  • Thread
  • Needle
  • Scissors
  • Ruler or measuring tape
  • Sewing machine (optional)

The type of fabric you choose will depend on the garment you are making. However, it is important to choose a fabric that is lightweight and drapes well, as this will help to create the desired effect of the pleats.

How Do You Calculate Fabric Needed?

Calculating the amount of fabric needed for cartridge pleats can be a bit tricky, as it will depend on the size of the garment you are making, as well as the desired fullness of the pleats. However, a general rule of thumb is to use two to three times the amount of fabric needed for a regular gathered waistband.

To calculate the amount of fabric needed, measure the waistline of the garment and multiply it by two to three. This will give you the amount of fabric needed for the pleats. Add an additional one to two inches for seam allowances and hemming.

How Do You Make the Pleats?

To create cartridge pleats, follow these steps:

  1. Measure and cut the fabric to the desired length and width.
  2. Mark the waistline of the garment on the fabric.
  3. Using a ruler or measuring tape, mark evenly spaced lines down the length of the fabric, starting at the waistline.
  4. Fold the fabric along each marked line, creating small, even pleats.
  5. Pin the pleats in place, making sure they are evenly spaced and aligned with the waistline.
  6. Sew a basting stitch along the top edge of the pleats to hold them in place.
  7. Remove the pins and adjust the pleats as needed.
  8. Sew a final stitch along the top edge of the pleats to secure them in place.
  9. Remove the basting stitch and press the pleats with an iron.

How Do You Attach the Pleats to the Bodice?

To attach the pleats to the bodice, follow these steps:

  1. Align the top edge of the pleats with the waistline of the bodice.
  2. Pin the pleats in place, making sure they are evenly spaced and aligned with the waistline.
  3. Sew the pleats to the bodice, using a straight stitch or a slip stitch.
  4. Remove the pins and press the pleats with an iron.

Conclusion

Cartridge pleats are a beautiful and timeless way to add fullness and volume to a garment. By following these steps, you can create your own cartridge pleats and add a touch of historical elegance to your wardrobe. Remember to choose the right fabric, calculate the fabric needed, and take your time creating the pleats to ensure a beautiful and professional finish.


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